As Louis the XIV's reign draws to an end, the Court's thoughts and customs change. This refined society's newfound olfactory sensitivity manifests itself through the unwillingness to tolerate strong odors and the revived interest for rural odors and natural scents. Strong perfumes used to mask the nauseating emanations give way to sophisticated, flowery preparations, tinged with fantasy.

The Court uses delicately scented waters composed of floral bouquets : l'Eau Divine, l'Eau de Mille fleurs, l'Eau de Bouquet du Printemps...as well as light and airy waters like Eau Admirable, Eau sans Pareille drawn from the distillation of "fruits a ecorces" or their essential oils obtained by grating their zests. These perfumes hailing from Germany under the name of Eau de Cologne encounter great success in Paris.

The fame of French perfumers favors the expansion of Grasse's perfume industry and its perfume-plant crops, while new techniques such as enfleurage or bergamot rind working appear.

Quality distillers and perfumers produce waters as light, transparent, and delicate as the crystal flasks come from Bohemia or England which contain them. As a matter of fact, this century, the reign of seduction, witnesses the proliferation of precious baubles containing perfumes, vinegars, and make-up : dressing-cases, pommanders, vinaigrettes, typically Grassois bergamot boxes, pot-pourri for atmospheric blends,...

Though perfume remains a luxury item at the end of the eighteenth century, it clings more closely to the values of nature and the mind's meanderings, strongly influenced by Rousseauvian ideology.

As Louis the XIV's reign draws to an end, the Court's thoughts and customs change. This refined society's newfound olfactory sensitivity manifests itself through the unwillingness to tolerate strong odors and the revived interest for rural odors and natural scents. Strong perfumes used to mask the nauseating emanations give way to sophisticated, flowery preparations, tinged with fantasy.

The Court uses delicately scented waters composed of floral bouquets : l'Eau Divine, l'Eau de Mille fleurs, l'Eau de Bouquet du Printemps...as well as light and airy waters like Eau Admirable, Eau sans Pareille drawn from the distillation of "fruits a ecorces" or their essential oils obtained by grating their zests. These perfumes hailing from Germany under the name of Eau de Cologne encounter great success in Paris.

The fame of French perfumers favors the expansion of Grasse's perfume industry and its perfume-plant crops, while new techniques such as enfleurage or bergamot rind working appear.

Quality distillers and perfumers produce waters as light, transparent, and delicate as the crystal flasks come from Bohemia or England which contain them. As a matter of fact, this century, the reign of seduction, witnesses the proliferation of precious baubles containing perfumes, vinegars, and make-up : dressing-cases, pommanders, vinaigrettes, typically Grassois bergamot boxes, pot-pourri for atmospheric blends,...

Though perfume remains a luxury item at the end of the eighteenth century, it clings more closely to the values of nature and the mind's meanderings, strongly influenced by Rousseauvian ideology.

18th century society is overtaken by a veritable perfume frenzy, to the point where it is expected that everything give off a specific odor.

This theatrical century grants a special place to the art of appearances and its accessories.

Flasks and precious baubles awaken a genuine craze, favoring the invention of new techniques such as that of hard porcelain which allows for the creation of incredibly varied forms.

The odor flasks are contained in large chests known as "necessaires" ; this word is first mentioned in a letter from the Duchess of Orleans, mother of the Regent, dating from March 24th, 1718 : she writes "My son gave his sister a necessaire, it's a small chest containing all that is needed to take one's tea, coffee, or chocolate...".
Lazare Duvaux's records mention that a necessaire was delivered to Louis XV containing all the items needed for washing up, but also useful accessories for a light lunch.

Besides these imposing necessaires, the century referred to by Voltaire as "le siecle de petitesses", witnesses a proliferation of delicious and charming baubles including cover-cases ,flasks , and necessaires which can be found in the pockets of elegant society. Pocket necessaires contain miniscule reproductions of a portable toilette, where flasks, funnels, ear-cleaners, tongue scratches , and ivory tablets to contain sweet messages, fit neatly into their tiny compartments. Whether they be squared or rounded, of stone or of shark-skin, their insides are always lined with silk or velvet. Given as prizes in the royal lotteries, or offered as gifts by lovers, they are also exchanged between Europe's various courts.

This mahogany and copper chest realized by Palma, a Parisian-based woodworker, includes approximately fifty objects including toilette flasks, powder boxes, and ointment pots, not to mention decorative porcelain pieces from the Manufacture d'Outrequin de Montarcy.

According to Madame Campan's memories, this object was officially commissioned by the queen in 1791 for her sister, the Duchess of Saxe-Teschen. However, according to an account by the queen's chambermaid, it was intended to figure among the royal family's luggage, during their flight which ended in Varenne. Seized in 1794 with the intention of bringing it to the treasury to melt it down and recover the silver, this necessaire was nonetheless preserved.

The queen's first travel necessaire is in the Departement des Objets d'Arts at the Louvre Museum.

To wear an odoriferous item in order to protect oneself against epidemics is a very ancient custom. When perfumes existed only in solid form, the elegant minded would place scented balls into tiny jewel boxes called pommanders, (as early as the 14th century), worn around ones neck or on one's belt. Of gold or of perforated silver, they exist in various shapes (fruits, animals) though the most common is an apple which opens into quarters. The Dictionnary of the English Language of 1768, explains that the word pommander comes from the French substantive "pomme d'ambre". Another English dictionary from 1811 indicates that it was worn around the neck or kept in one's pocket like an amulet. Its effusions were considered to provide excellent protection against the plague. As liquid perfumes become more and more commonplace the pommanders disappear. What's more, with musk's disrepute, perfumers advise all ladies to carry their perfume in flasks for fear of incommoding those who can no longer stand them.

Vinaigrettes are small boxes of various shapes, usually rectangular, equipped with a chain. They allow one to keep an aromatic vinegar in one's pocket . Inside, a screen in gilded metal (to prevent erosion from the acids) is built around a hinge, holding a tiny piece of Turkish sponges drenched with aromatic vinegar.

Obtained by distillation or in vinegar infusions of odoriferous plants, the vinegar is used for washing up (it is used for facial cleansing and gives tonus to the skins fibers) or therapeutically. In fact, when a woman faints, her entourage can rub her forehead with a piece of vinegar-soaked cotton, which significantly complements the effects of inhalations. According to one's taste, there are also lavender or colchicum aromatic vinegars.

Grasse's prosperous industry in the 18th century encourages the creation of a specialty : bergamot boxes or orangettes, made from the bergamot rind.

The inverted skin is placed on a wooden mandrel whose form it will adopt as it dries. Once backed with cardboard, it is painted -most often with scenes of gallantry- and then varnished.

These bergamot boxes contain pastilles, powder, tiny flasks...and are often given as gifts.

There are also cardboard boxes whose interior is lined with a bergamot inlay.

These objects of inferior quality are apparently made in Italy and exported to Grasse.

During the Enlightenment everything is perfumed ; handkerchiefs, clothing, woodwork, drapery,... For ambiance, perfume burners and pot-pourri vases are used. These are veritable works of art in precious metals or in porcelain, containing dried materials which perfume the atmosphere. The pot-pourri disappears with the Revolution.

A pot-pourri recipe :

Place a layer of aromatic plants and a layer of salt into a pot in an alternating fashion until it is full :
> rose, orange flowers, lavander, marjoram,
> thyme, myrtle, melilot, rosemary, laurel,
> cloves,
> rose petals, nutmeg and carnations.
Cover. Let sit in the sun stirring the contents every other day. Use after a year.