Beginning in 1974 with the first major oil-crisis, the West undergoes a serious economic, political, social , and moral crisis : rising unemployment and precariousness appear in Europe and the United States : the East-West division disappears with the collapse of the Berlin Wall and with it Marxist Ideology ; violence escalates ; AIDS heightens the surrounding gloom.

The last two decades of the 20th century announce the emerging of a new society, searching for a new spirituality as is manifested by the vitality of sects, but for new ideals as well. These include the struggle for Human Rights, humanitarian aid, the struggle against racism and exclusion, and the ecological movements' battle to protect the planet.

Fashion will not escape this tendency. New designers take their inspiration from the streets and apply them to high fashion and ready-to-wear. They create all sorts of styles and multiply the possibilities of dress.
It's a time for distinguishing oneself and cultivating one's "look", from the aggressive look of Claude Montana's black leather, or the provocative models of Thierry Mugler's Hollywood inspired elegance, to Jean-Paul Gaulthier's fashion shows accessorized to the hilt. Certain trends provoke heated reactions such as Rei Kamakuto (Comme des Garcons) presented in Paris in 1981 and perceived as an apology for poverty, due to the simplicity and rustic quality of the fabrics used.

This aggressiveness is also expressed in perfumery through such creations as Giorgio by Beverly Hills, the stars' perfume launched in the United States in 1988, Poison by Christian Dior, Obsession by Calvin Klein, Joop Nuit d'Ete by Joop,...

Other less shocking releases mark these years : Armani pour Homme by Armani, Xeryus by Givenchy, Balahe by Leonard, Diva by Ungaro, Paris by Yves Saint Laurent,...

Faced with an uncertain future, society takes refuge in the irrational and the mysterious - astrology, para-psychology, exoteric sciences, UFO's score big - and also in a certain hedonism, as an assertion of pleasure and the senses.

As a counterpoint, the rise of ecological movements, the success of non-traditional medicines express a quest for the natural, gentleness, which perfumers translate with fresh, marine notes, expressing this tendency towards cleanliness already present in detergents. Cool Watter by Davidoff, Eternity for Men, Escape by Calvin Klein, Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo, L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake, Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani, Cabotine by Gres, L'Eau Parfumee by Bulgari,... Bulgari offer their interpretations.

Flask design picks up the concept with stripped down forms, close to the cube, the cylinder or the pyramid.

Homogenizing mass culture, the reflection of industrial standardization, gives way to the individualization of social practices, as manifested by the omnipotence of audiovisual culture, cocooning : Chanel releases its men's perfume Egoiste in 1988.

In the nineties, the general trend towards globalization affects the perfume industry : Ten groups, representing eighty brands, make up 60% of the world market's perfume sales. Thanks to economic olfactory methods, the rarest fragrances can be produced by the flavorings industry just as well as the perfume industry. Sweet scents appear : Angel by Thierry Mugler, Le Male by Jean-Paul Gaultier, Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent,...

In the same way that television multiplies its programs thanks to satellites, "zapping" becomes a consumer attitude. Witness the proliferation of clothing, musical, and linguistic styles, not to mention the creation of perfumes whose existence is as fleeting as the fashions which inspire them. Olfactory diversity becomes the norm without any real dominating trend ; almost all perfumes are accompanied by a line of bath and body care products ; babies, children, adolescents have become big marketing stakes.

To mark their belonging to a group or a "tribe", the young generations adopt an often unisex style, like the eau de toilette CK One by Calvin Klein.

To satisfy our multifaceted personalities' desires, fragrances multiply and open the doors onto an amazing garden where flowers, fruits, and spices intermingle : they are Les Belles by Nina Ricci, Acqua Allegoria by Guerlain, Boss by Hugo Boss, Live Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent...
In the meantime our desires for exoticism and nature are answered by Ralph Lauren's Romance, Azzaro's Azzura, Yves Saint Laurent's Baby Doll, Yohji Yamamoto's Yohji Homme.

For today's true woman, spontaneous, unpredictable, voluptuous and passionate, Christian Dior introduces J'Adore. Lacoste for Women, Lacoste's first feminine perfume, is for the active and feminine woman. With its shimmering yellow juice, Fragile by Jean-Paul Gaultier is intended for the modern, feminine woman who's not so fragile after all, while Gucci Rush by Gucci reveille l'ange-demon tapi en chacune d'entre nous... awakens the angel-devil lurking in each and everyone... As for the woman of the year 2000, she wears Paco Rabanne's Ultraviolet, a ray of energy and sensuality in an avant-garde flask, violet being the color of the new millennium.

Men's lines are unabashedly futuristic. Precursor of the 2000 generation, Givenchy proposes a Spatial hair and body shampoo in dehydrated form as part of its Pi line. With its Y-shaped flask, made for a man's hand, Nemo by Cacharel offers a future vision while answering the existential questions of today's man.

In the 21st century, while researchers seek to understand the mechanisms of olfactory perception and create artificial noses, three major trends appear.

The return of sophisticated perfumes, both original and daring -yet tinged with a certain classicism- and graced by opulent flasks. These include "l'eau de parfum" Allure by Chanel, Indecence by Givenchy, Patou for Ever by Patou, Splendor by Elisabeth Arden, Birmane by Van Cleef & Arpels...

Perfumes in masculine and feminine versions : Yin and Yang by Jacques Fath for peace and serenity ; Les Coeurs de Chamade by Guerlain, in two mythical heart-shaped flasks to beat as one...

The development of aromacologie and perfumes exalting positives, soothing, invigorating, and bracing mind and body while maintaining the power of seduction. Some examples are Green Tea by Elisabeth Arden, Aromatic Tonic by Lancome, Energizing Fragrance by Shisheido,...

Today more than ever, perfume is a luxury item subject to economic concerns. However, its magical power remains intact : it beckons the imagination, invites escape reverie. From one shore to another, it has adapted itself throughout the 20th century to the cultures, traditions, and olfactory sensibilities of every continent, all the while transmitting its typically French heritage, and its undisputed savoir-faire the world over.